Saturday, January 30, 2010

O Come, O Come, Emmanuel

Here's Part II of the Cambridge trip: Emmanuel College. It was founded as a training college for Protestant preachers in 1584, and was all-male until 1979. It is comprised of several attached courtyards. Below is a photo of the front courtyard. Only professors, or "fellows" as they are called at Cambridge, are allowed to walk on the lawn. Everyone else has to walk around the outer walkways.

Here is one of the adjoining courtyards. The building on the left is dorm rooms, and the one on the right, that you can just see the corner of, is the library. Excepting the front courtyard, the courtyards at Emmanuel are all filled with hedge mazes and such, all organized and trimmed in traditional Tudor fashion, complete with herb gardens between the rows.

The dining hall. And to think I put up with Prentiss for two years. Not fair.

The hall is actually much longer than the picture shows, but I was forced to crop a lot of it in an effort to make my very cock-eyed photo somewhat straighter. The profs sit at the top table and get waited on.


The college chapel. The pews are built facing inward rather than forward to signify that this is an academic setting, not just a religious one.


Close-up of one of the stained glass windows in the chapel. Each of the windows depicts two people of great import who either attended or taught at Emmanuel College. Here we have Lawrence Chaderton, right, who was the first headmaster of Emmanuel. The current headmaster is Lord Wilson, Baron of Dinton. To the left is John Harvard (as in Harvard University, the U.S.'s oldest university), who was a student here. In the top right-hand corner of his picture is a ship, to signify his crossing the Atlantic to the New World and setting up Harvard University.


This is John Harvard's dorm building. As in the one he lived in, not one that's named after him. Yeah.


Part of the grounds in back of the college. The pond used to be stocked with fish, and the priests- and monks-in-training would catch fish as part of their dinners.

On the far left-hand side of the photo is the requisite Ugly Modern Sculpture that it seems no beautiful college can be without. And I thought it was just Whitman that had a hideous artwork problem.


All in all, though, a lovely Cambridge college--and one of many!

Friday, January 29, 2010

It's All Welsh to Me

Today, Zahra (flatmate) showed me the name of one of the towns in Wales.

Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch

I kid you not. It means "St. Mary's Church (Llanfair) in a hollow (pwll) of white hazel (gwyngyll) near (goger) the swirling whirlpool (y chwyrndrobwll) of the church of St. Tysilio (llantysilio) with a red cave ([a]g ogo goch)."


Wales is called Cymru by the Welsh (the Cymry), and is the more politically correct name, though Wales is still used by the English. "Welsh" actually means "slaves" or, a little more correctly, "foreigners" in Old Saxon, rather ironic considering the Saxons were the ones invading. 97.1% of the population of Llanfairpwll speak Welsh, and a little less than 30% of the UK population speak Welsh fluently. Some UK websites are bilingual or have a button you can click to have the entire web page translated into Welsh. Here's a picture of the Cymry flag.


Here's a picture of the Welsh flag. Here's what Wikipedia has to say about it:

"The flag was granted official status in 1959, but the red dragon itself has been associated with Wales for centuries; indeed, the flag is sometimes claimed to be the oldest national flag still in use, though the origin of the adoption of the dragon symbol is now lost in history and myth. A plausible theory is that the Romans brought the emblem to what is now Wales during their occupation of Britain in the form of the Draco standards borne by the Roman cavalry, itself inspired by the symbols of the Dacians or Parthians. The green and white stripes of the flag were additions by the House of Tudor, the Welsh dynasty that held the English throne from 1485 to 1603. Green and white are also the colours of the leek, another national emblem of Wales.

The oldest known use of the dragon to symbolise Wales is from the Historia Brittonum, written around 830, but it is popularly supposed to have been the battle standard of Arthur and other ancient Celtic/Romano-British leaders. It is particularly associated in Welsh poetry with Cadwaladr king of Gwynedd from c.655 to 682.

Many legends are associated with the Welsh dragon. The most famous is the prophecy of Myrddin (or Merlin) of a long fight between a red dragon and a white dragon. According to the prophecy, the white dragon would at first dominate but eventually the red dragon would win, this eventual victory and recapturing of Lloegr would be, according to Welsh legend, brought about by Y Mab Darogan. This is believed to represent the conflict in the 5th and 6th centuries between the British Celts (who later became the Welsh) and the invading Saxons."

So here's food for thought: Notice in the last sentence of the first paragraph, "the leek, another national emblem of Wales?" So one of the kennings I listed in my earlier post, "In Which I Unlock My Word-Hoard," has "sword" as "onion of war." The other translation for this particular kenning is "leek of war." Connection? I think so.

Tuesday, January 26, 2010

God Save the Queen!

Last night, my flatmates and I played "Ring of Fire," a.k.a. King's Cup. The rules are pretty much the same, except a few which I think we should adopt:

7: Sevens. You go around the circle counting off, but when you reach a number that has a seven in it or is a multiple of seven, you must say a different word in its place.

8: Mate or Thumb Master. I think "mate" is a better term to use than "date." The other option is Thumb Master, where the person who drew the card puts their thumb surreptitiously on the edge of the table at some point during the game, and the last person to copy them drinks.

Q: God Save the Queen. The person who drew the card takes a penny, which has a picture of the queen on it, and drops it in someone's drink. The other person must have their hands on their glass in order for the penny person to drop the pence in the drink. The person who receives the penny must then finish off the drink, thus "saving the queen."

Other news in the flat: Our flat came to the conclusion last night that, should the zombie apocalypse come, we will all take refuge in Norwich Castle and make our last stand in the keep.

The Prince and I

I met Prince Charles today.

He visited UEA "in his capacity as the Patron of the School of Environmental Sciences," and the international students were invited to greet him at the entrance to the Science Building. He stopped to chat with a couple of my friends and I got within a foot and a half of him. Of course, it would have been much nicer if his sons had come. ;) He's really not that important-looking, honestly. I think I would have felt more kindly toward him had his chauffeur not made us wait outside in the freezing cold for an hour longer than they promised. But still...pretty cool.

Oh, and Kyle: Ann Curry vs. Prince Charles--I think I win. ;)

DNA, Gravity, and Other Trivialities

Here is Part I of the Cambridge trip, which covers everything except Emmanuel College and Kings' College.

The University of Cambridge was founded in 1209 when riots at Oxford caused some refugee students to flee to Cambridge, then a major river port and trading town. They set up shop there, and the rest is 800-year-old-history. There are now 31 colleges in Cambridge, all under the umbrella of University of Cambridge. As we only had one day there, our tour guide was only able to take us to a few.

I'll open up with a few street scenes of Cambridge, to give you all a feel for the place:



And, of course, the other main road, the River Cam (hence Cam-bridge), where punting is a popular hobby:



Here is a photo of Mathematical Bridge and one of the buildings of Queens' College. Queens' College was commissioned by Queen Margaret of Anjou, wife of Henry VI--the one who originally commissioned Kings' College down the road. This particular building was built in the mid-15th century.



Corpus Christi College boasts the oldest college building in Cambridge, built in the mid-1300s. The dorms originally slept eight to a room. Now they sleep one to a room. Mmm...cozy.



This, ladies and gentlemen, is a descendant of the apple tree that clonked Sir Isaac Newton on the head, leading to the discovery of gravity.



And here is the Eagle, the most famous pub in Cambridge. It is here that Watson and Crick, having just discovered DNA at Cavendish Laboratory down the road, came to celebrate. They walked in, ordered drinks, and loudly whispered, "We have discovered the secret of life!" So the patrons at the Eagle knew about DNA before the article was published in any science journal; they knew about it before most of the world's leading scientists did. Their response? Everyone just rolled their eyes and kept on drinking. Nerds.

Monday, January 25, 2010

In Which I Unlock My Word-Hoard

Fun lesson of the day: Kennings.

A kenning, for those unfamiliar with Old English, is a compressed metaphor or circumlocution of a noun, in which an object is described in a phrase often consisting of two hyphenated words, i.e. "whale-road" = sea. Some of them are really beautiful and interesting ways of describing things. You see them in Anglo-Saxon and Norse poetry especially.

For clarity: Old English (pre-1066) is the stuff Beowulf is written in, eg. Hwaet! We gardena in gear-dagum (Hark! We have heard of the spear-Danes of old). Chaucer (c. 1343-1400) wrote in Middle English, eg. Whan that Aprill with his shoures soote/the droghte of March hath perced to the roote (When April with his sweet showers has pierced the drought of March to the root).


Above: Beowulf (Unknown Author)
Below: Canterbury Tales (Chaucer)


Memory tool: Middle English = kinda sorta readable. Old English = WTF?

There aren't a lot of kennings in Middle English, but they're all over the place in Old English.

Examples:

Sea........................Whale-road, swan-road
Blood....................Slaughter-dew, battle-sweat
King......................Giver of rings
Bride/Wife...........Peace-weaver
Corpse..................Raven-harvest
Gold or Amber....Freya's tears
Raven...................Blood-swan
Snake...................Valley-trout
Sword...................Blood-worm, blood-icicle, onion of war (I don't get it either)

Today, while researching some primary sources on early medieval coronation rituals, I came across a new favorite:

"Widsith spoke, unlocked his word-hoard"

Word-hoard. It's a keeper.

P.S. I visited Cambridge this weekend, but as I have quite the word-hoard and image-hoard to share about it, it will have to wait a bit.

Friday, January 22, 2010

Glass? Looked like Satin to Me

Sonia (flatmate) and I went to see Moscow City Ballet perform Cinderella on Wednesday night. There was an ad for it in the school newspaper that came out on Monday, and if you took the ad into the Norwich Theatre Royal box office right before Wednesday's show, they would give you up to two premium, normally-38-pound tickets for 10 pounds apiece. That's about a $60 ticket for $16! The leads were good, the male corps needed work on their turns, and the costumes were fabulous. I learned that the big thing to do when going to the theatre in the UK is to get ice cream at intermission. Who knew?

Also, courgette = zucchini. Rob (flatmate) thinks that zucchini is the funniest word he's ever heard.

On Thursday, the flat went out to the Reel Big Fish concert on campus. It's a ska band, and it was really fun to listen to.

"Fall Back to the Keep!"

On Tuesday I visited Norwich Castle. It was first built in 1067 on the orders of William the Conqueror, who invaded England in September of 1066 and crowned himself by Christmas, but it was a motte-and-bailey structure, so that part no longer remains. What does remain is the keep, which was added on in 1120. It is an unusual castle because, though it was built so long ago, a surprising amount of detail went into the outer facade. The walls at the base are 12 feet thick, and I believe they are 10 feet thick at the top, but don't quote me on that. Ninety-eight Saxon homes were destroyed in order to clear the ground for the castle to be built. To add insult to injury, the invading Norman king forced the residents to tear down their own homes. Nothing like unhousing and oppressing the locals to show everyone who's boss.

There is now a museum attached to the castle, as you can see in the photo above. It has several exhibits, including one on the natural wildlife of Norwich (much the same as you see in the Pacific Northwest--same climate), 18th-century clothing, modern watercolor paintings, Anglo-Saxon artifacts, an Egyptian mummy, the Margaret Fountaine butterfly collection, and Boudica, a Celtic queen of the East Anglian Iceni tribe who led a brutal revolt against the occupying Romans in A.D. 60 or 61, among other exhibits.

Here, we have a drawing of what the castle looked like in the 12th century. The first outer bailey is now the location of Castle Mall shopping center, and the other baileys are still hills, but have business buildings all over them.

From the 1220s to 1887, the castle was used as a prison. There's a lot of scratched graffiti on the stone walls from the prisoners. The oldest one dates back to the 13th or 14th century! This is a model of what the prison looked like in 1887. In 1895 it opened up as a museum, and all of the little gray buildings were demolished.


Here are two views from inside the keep. The bottom floor is divided in half, with one half being a museum for the 1067-1220 "castle" era, and the other half being devoted to the 1220-1887 "prison" era. During the "castle" time, the top floor was completely solid--you couldn't look down and see the bottom floor. There were also wooden walls dividing the space up into rooms, though, as you can see, those are all gone now. The far corner in the second picture is the area that used to be the castellan's chambers (or king's, when he chose to visit).

Also on the second floor is an altar, built for the king's private use. It's called the Royal Peculiar, and iss unusual because it was consecrated and controlled by the king, not the Archbishop of Canterbury, which means that only the king has the power to unconsecrate it. It can still be used for weddings, baptisms, etc., because it's still holy ground. During the "prison" years, it was used to baptize children born in jail and give Last Communion to those about to be executed.

Opposite the alter are the latrines, shown here. Some poor peasant was hired to clean out the nasty business regularly so that it wouldn't stink up the whole castle. The perk was that, if anyone were to drop a ring or some such down the latrines by accident, the royal pooper scooper was allowed to keep it, no questions asked.

During the prison days, the latrine was used as an infirmary--a rather disturbing thought, in my opinion. Norwich Castle was one of the only prisons to have an infirmary for several centuries--usually they didn't really care if a prisoner got sick or died, since they weren't really adding to society anyway.

A grand and roomy doorway; one of several. The idea was that if you made the doorways really small, invaders could only attack one by one and would thus be much easier to kill.


This well is in the near-center of the main floor. It's 124 feet deep and dates from the end of the 11th century.

A detail of the grand entrance. I took some photos of the whole entrance, but they weren't much to look at. The carvings make it one of the best secular carved medieval doorways in England. The petal-looking carvings on the outer strip are Norman-style stars, to symbolize the heavens. The seed pod/coffee bean looking things in the next strip are symbols of the Virgin Mary (apparently "secular" is a loose term), and the inner strip has carvings of hunting scenes--the kind done for sport, not meals.


At the other end of the attached section of the museum is a staircase that leads down to a tunnel. The tunnel is decked out like a WWI trench, complete with sound effects. At the other end lies the Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum, which was also fun to look through. It had a section for each war since at least the War of the Roses, if not the Battle of Hastings, all the way up to the Iraq War. It's interesting--the British accounts of wars are a lot less biased than the ones you get in American museums. It's still there, definitely, but not nearly as much. They're also a lot more willing to admit when they lost a war. They've got so many wars that they've won and/or done well in that admitting few losses here or there over the centuries doesn't really bother them. It was really interesting to see the section on the American Revolution and read about the heroes on the British side--they rarely if ever mention them in the American history textbooks. On a separate but somewhat related note, there is a building on campus named after Thomas Paine, which I find incredibly ironic.

Amens and Alcohol










Here are a few more pictures of Norwich Cathedral and the town, taken by a couple of my friends here. Apparently at one time there were enough churches in Norwich for every week of the year (52!) and enough pubs for every day of the year (365!), according to the Friends of Norwich Historical Society tour guide. All this in a town of 132,000 people. Several of the pubs and a few of the churches have since closed down, but when I said earlier that one could hardly turn around without bumping into some church or another, I wasn't exaggerating.

Also, the two photos at the top show a building that was level when it was built, but after years of re-settling earth is now completely caddywhompus.

Sunday, January 17, 2010

The Pillars of the Earth
























The original plan for the day was to go to Norwich Castle, but, as happens to most plans, that one got chucked out the window and saved for a later date. Instead, I met up with some of Kassy's (American flatmate) friends we went to Norwich Cathedral and explored town a bit.

The pictures, for some reason, are in reverse order--the first photo is at the bottom and the last photo is at the top.

First (bottom) is a picture of a typical city street in Norwich. The second is a courtyard with shops. Not only do they have shops on the streets, but then there are a plethora of little alleyways that you can duck into that lead to courtyards with more shops. The third and fourth photos are of Elm Street. Elm Street is a semi-famous street that, up until the Dutch Elm Disease of 1970, had elm trees that had been there since the reign of Henry VIII. The fifth photo features Tombland market, located in the center of old Norwich. The placard next to the market says Tombland market was "known in the 13th century as Tomeland, from the Old Norse 'tom' meaning 'open space'. It was the civic centre of Anglo-Scandinavian Norwich and the site of the pre-Norman market." Next we have the former entrance to Bridewell Prison, unassumingly wedged between two standard shops located on your average random side street. Bridewell was first built in 1325, housed the mayor of Norwich in 1404, and was turned into a prison from 1583-1828. The following two photos are of the courtyard adjoining St. Andrew's Cathedral. You can hardly turn around without bumping into some cathedral or another. St. Andrew's, St. John's, St. Julian's, and Norwich Cathedral are the most prominent ones, so far as I can see. You actually have to walk through the St. John's graveyard in order to get to the mall or the grocery store. But of course Norwich Cathedral is the crown jewel.

Norwich Cathedral (pictured next) has the second-highest spire in all of England. The tallest belongs to Salisbury Cathedral. Following, there are some pictures of the courtyard in the cloisters and the Jubilee Labyrinth in the middle of it. The Jubilee Labyrinth was set down in 2002 in celebration of the Golden Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II. It's supposed to symbolize the spiritual journey through life. Next is a picture of the doorway leading from the cloisters to the nave. The most impressive things about Norwich Castle are actually the ceilings in the nave and cloisters, so I've dedicated the remaining pictures to them. First is the cloisters, then the nave, followed by a close-up of the ceiling. Each of those blobs is a carving, and each one is different. There are carvings of monks, of saints, of demons, of Christ in a variety of forms, carvings of shrubs and flowers, scenes from Revelations, and others. It's the same thing in the cloisters. I put up some photos of a couple of the carvings. The last photo, however, is the best. This is a photo of one of said carvings in the cloisters. It's known as the Green Man. The Green Man in Norwich is a particularly famous one, but Green Men do show up in other places. Peter Pan was partially inspired by the Green Man. It is thought to be a pagan nature deity associated with spring, inspiration, and rebirth. When Christian missionaries came to convert the locals, they would adopt and adapt local deities, turning them into obscure saints so as to make Christianity more palatable to the natives. Another tactic for conversion was mixing pagan deities with saints, telling the locals that the deity and the saint were one and the same. For example, Brigit, a Celtic triple goddess and daughter of the Dagda, was conflated with St. Brigid, and now both share the symbol of the sacred flame of Kildare. But to go back to the Green Man: the Green Man is thought to be the earlier form of the Green Knight in the famous medieval poem Sir Gawain and the Green Knight, and the sculpture of the Green Man at Norwich is sometimes put on the cover or frontispiece of Sir Gawain and the Green Knight books.

Better luck next time with the photos. Apologies for my lack of tech abilities!